| Distilleries:
Fettercairn | Glen Garioch | Glencadam | Glenesk | Glenugie
Glenury Royal | Lochnagar | Lochside | North Port
Like the Inverness district, the Eastern Highlands distilleries have not fared well over the past two decades. Of the nine distilleries above, only four are still producing whisky.
|
 |
| Fettercairn |
aka Old Fettercairn |
| Comments: |
Although it began at a site a few miles away, the current Fettercairn distillery was built in 1824. There have been many owners over the years. In the late 1800's the chairman of the distillery was Sir John Gladstone. His son eventually became prime minister and was instrumental in passing legislation to alleviate taxes on the "angel's share" (spirit lost through evaporation while the whisky is maturing).
Fettercairn is a component of the Whyte & Mackay blends.
|
 |
 |
| Distillery Bottlings:
|
Fettercairn is released in the US in a 10-year-old expression, and unfortunately is easily dismissed because of its low price. It's a very enjoyable malt.
For lovers of leafy, earthy malts this is a special pleasure. The nutty, leafy nose has hints of toffee and sherry, perhaps cookie dough. The palate is clean with a sweet maltiness and hints of oatmeal and raisins. A warm, sweet finish. 82
|
 |
 |
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
A Glenhaven 10-year-old is currently available. |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: JBB (Greater Europe)
Telephone: 01561-340244
From the US: 011-44-1561-340244
Tours: Visitor center with scheduled tours |
|
| Glen Garioch |
| Comments: |
Pronounced "Geery", the distillery is one of the oldest in Scotland, dating back to 1785. It has been operated by Morrison Bowmore Distillers which is owned by the Japanese company, Suntory. The distillery was mothballed in 1995, then in 1997 it was reopened.
|
| Distillery Bottlings: |
I recently sampled an 8-year-old distillery bottling. The color is full gold. The nose is very interesting with elements that are Lowland-like (burnt sugar, toasted marshmallow sweetness), combined with a youthful sourness (a faint hint of vinegar?), with an underlying bit of peat and perfume. The palate is quite sweet and somewhat perfumy at first, and feels thick on the tongue. As the flavor develops it becomes drier and more peaty. 77 |
|
 |
|
|
There are also bottlings of a 15-year-old and a 21-year-old, as well as Selected Cask Bottlings and Individual Cask Bottlings. |
 |
|
|
|
|
A 27-year-old 1970 Individual Cask Bottling (42 vol.) is an amber color with bright orange highlights. The nose is dry, oaky, phenolic (reminiscent of creosote), and earthy. The body is full and thick. The palate is extremely dry with cough syrup and mint notes. The finish is very long, dry, and minty. 82 |
 |
|
|
| Special Bottlings: |
In 1997 Glen Garioch celebrated 200 years of distillations with the release of a special 37-year-old 200th Anniversary bottling. |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
I haven't experienced any independent bottlings. |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd (Suntory)
Telephone: 01651-873450
From the US: 011-44-1651-873450 |
|
|
| Link: |
www.morrisonbowmore.co.uk |
|
| Glencadam |
| Distillery Bottlings: |
The distillery is located half a mile east of the ancient town of Brechin near the East coast of Scotland. There are no distillery releases of Glencadam as most of the output goes into Ballentine's blend. |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
Occasionally independent bottlings appear. In the past Gordon and MacPhail have had several offerings.
|
|
A Cadenhead 11-year-old (1980-92, 61.2 vol., sherry cask) is amber, with a very fragrant nose -- flowers, raisins, tobacco, licorice, and unfortunately, a slight unpleasant "rubbery" quality. The palate is sweet, dense, raisiny, with an underlying dry smokiness. The finish is dry with a citrus-like astringency.
Not a great malt, but this is a sherry cask bottling (though not stated on the label) and can't be considered a fair test of the distillery product. 65
|
 |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Allied Distillers (Allied Domecq)
Telephone: 01356-622217
From the US: 011-44-1356-622217
Tours: Mon - Thurs 10:00 - 4:00 |
|
| Glenesk |
aka Glen Esk, Hillside |
| Silent |
Glenesk has had a spotty past with many name changes and even converted to a grain distillery at one point. The distillery was closed in 1985 and unlikely to reopen. In the past it was an important element in the Vat 69 blend. |
|
|
| Distillery Bottlings: |
There are no distillery bottlings. |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
A Cadenhead 13-year-old (1982-95, 66.5 vol.) Glen Esk bottling. It has a very pale color, almost clear, with yellow-green hints. The nose is dry and malty with fragrant cedar notes. The palate is quite sweet with honeydew melon flavors. There's an underlying element of sourness (not unpleasant), that balances the sweetness. A very pleasant malt. 70 |
 |
|
|
|
|
A Rare Malts 25-year-old Hillside (1969, 61.9 vol.) is a white wine color. The nose is nutty, earthy, grassy, and cedary. The palate is very smooth, creamy, dry, with sweet apricot notes. Finish is herbal, slightly salty. 73 |
 |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Diageo |
|
| Glenugie |
| Dismantled |
Glenugie was closed in 1982 and the stills subsequently dismantled. The buildings still stand but have been converted to other uses. |
|
|
| Distillery Bottlings: |
Glenugie has never been available in a distillery bottling. |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
There have been several independent releases in the past, most noticeably Gordon and MacPhail bottlings. Though never considered a particularly outstanding malt, as stores diminish Glenugie is becoming quite rare and highly sought after. If you happen across a bottle, by all means grab it quickly. |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Long John (Whitbread) |
|
| Glenury Royal |
| Dismantled |
I have to admit that there is a soft spot in my heart for Glenury Royal. Back in the days when I drank blended Scotch, I came across some rather inexpensive bottles of Glenury Royal at my local market. I, of course, abused it by pouring it over ice cubes. Something special must have registered with me, however, because it led me to eventually experiment and learn more about single malt whisky.
Unfortunately, the distillery was mothballed in 1985, and sold for residential development in 1992.
|
|
|
| Distillery Bottlings: |
Distillery releases are no longer available. |
 |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
There are still occasional independent bottlings. A Cooper's Choice 19-year-old (1978-98, 43 vol.) has a gold color with greenish highlights. The nose is dry, aromatic, with peaty and lightly fruity notes. The palate is a pleasant blend of dry, lightly earthy notes, balanced by crisp, honey-like sweet notes. The finish is surprisingly long and appetizing. 83 |
 |
|
| Lochnagar |
aka Royal Lochnagar |
|
Lochnagar distillery.
|
| Distillery Bottlings: |
The 12-year-old bottling from the distillery is complex and rewarding. Definite sherry cask qualities come through in the nose and palate. The color is a rich gold. The nose is big, with vanilla and slight oak notes, even a touch of smoke. The palate continues the richness with the addition of some fruitiness. The overall impression is of malty sweetness with a creamy vanilla oak. Delicious. 84 |
 |
|
|
| Special Bottlings: |
Lochnagar produces a "Selected Reserve" (no age statement, 43 vol.), which is shipped in a polished wooden box. Though a bit expensive it is very enjoyable. It has a full bronze/amber color, and a nose that is rich with fruity, toffee, smoky, cedary, and faintly earthy notes. The palate is dry, highlighted with some sweet raisiny notes, and slightly spicy, smoky undertones. The finish is long, dry, raisiny, and smoky. Perfect for those special winter evenings by the fire. 86 |
 |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
I haven't sighted any merchant bottlings of Royal Lochnagar. |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Diageo
Telephone: 01339-742716
From the US: 011-44-1339-742716
Tours: Visitor center with scheduled tours |
|
| Lochside |
| Dismantled |
Lochside began producing whisky and grain spirits in 1957, housed in a former brewery that dated back to the 1890's, and looking very much like a romantic German castle. The founder, Joseph Hobbs, died in 1964 and his son (also Joseph Hobbs) continued to run the distillery until 1973 when it was sold to a Spanish firm. Unfortunately, through a series of acquisitions Lochside ended in the hands of Allied Distillers who mothballed it in the 1980's, reopened it briefly, then halted production in 1992. Five years later the property was sold to developers and the distillery demolished.
The saddest part of the story is that Lochside is an outstanding whisky. Since much of the distillery production went into blends or was exported for sale in Spain, few lovers of whisky had an opportunity to sample Lochside and it never established a reputation as a single malt.
|
|
|
| Distillery Bottlings: |
There are no distillery bottlings available. |
 |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
Lochside is becoming increasingly rare. Though the distillery was producing as recently as 1992, most of the output was sent to Spain where it was the basis for a very popular blend. There are still stores in the hands of independent bottlers that occasionally make their way to the market as single malt releases.
|
|
An 18-year-old bottling (1981-2000, 46 vol.) is available from Murray McDavid. It has a slightly deeper gold color than the Cadenhead (above), and a very light, almost transparent nose. Slight hints of dry oak, a very faint peatiness, and a thin wash of peach pit fruitiness. The palate is again quite light, sweet at first with a malty and fruity notes, then a creamy, nutty richness. The finish is surprisingly long, creamy, and a bit spicy. 82 |
 |
|
|
|
|
A Cadenhead 19 year-old (1981-2000, 58 vol. sherrywood cask) is a light gold color. The nose has notes of oloroso sherry, along with oak, a peaty creaminess, an apple-like fruitiness, and a faint floral quality. The palate is quite smooth, dry, and has echoes of green apples. 84
|
 |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Macnab Distilleries (Allied Domecq) |
|
| North Port |
| Dismantled |
North Port was closed in 1983 and has been demolished. It is only available in increasingly rare independent bottlings. |
|
|
| Merchant Bottlings: |
North Port is enjoyable but not an outstanding malt.
Samplings from a 19 and a 20-year-old Cadenhead (both from the same 1976 distilling ) were very similar. The 20-year-old (61.7 vol.) had a light gold color and a light, dry, winey, cereal grain nose. The palate was slightly thick and chewy, with a dry fruitiness at first. The finish was somewhat spirity with lingering pear and some smoky notes. 69
|
 |
|
A 1970 Connoisseurs Choice that I sampled in Scotland was more complex with a slight oakiness and salt added to mild sherry and smoke flavors. |
|
|
| Information: |
Ownership: Diageo |
|
| © 1999-2002 maltwhiskey.com. All rights reserved. |
|
