
Loch Dunvegan on Skye
Distilleries:
Arran | Highland Park | Jura | Scapa | Talisker | Tobermory
The islands, and the Western coast of Scotland are spectacularly beautiful, Especially the Isle of Skye. As I drive around the island, I stop, shoot numerous photos, and swear that I am seeing the most beautiful sight I have ever seen. Moments later I turn a bend there is an equal if not more beautiful panorama.

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| Arran |
aka Isle of Arran |
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On approaching the town of Lochranza, the pagodas of Arran distillery can be seen in the upper right.

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| Comments: |
When Harold Currie, the managing director at Chivas Brothers retired, he began work on his own distillery near Lochranza at the north end of the Isle of Arran. The first distillations took place in June of 1995.
While waiting for Arran distillations to mature, the distillery has been bottling vatted malts under the Arran label.

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On a visit to the distillery, Gordon Mitchell, Distillery Manager, poured a sample from a 4 1/2-year-old sherry cask (58 vol.) from the first distillations at Arran. Very enjoyable at cask strength, a splash of water opened up a rich, creamy, toffee sweetness that was balanced by a slightly salty sea breeze softness. An amazingly subtle and smooth malt, especially at such a young age. We can anticipate great single malts from Arran in the coming years.
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Gordon Mitchell, Distillery Manager |
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| Distillery Bottlings: |
A one-year-old was released in 1996, and has already become a collectors item. Product from a distillery cannot legally be called "whisky" until it is at least three-years-old, for this reason the release is labeled as a "1 Year Old Spirit." |
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There was a limited release in 1998 when the first distillations reached legal age. The 3-year-old was sold for $150 a bottle and was quickly bought up. |
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Recently a single malt has been released by the distillery. There is no age statement, but one can easily do the math and learn that it is a 4-year-old. Released at 43 vol., it has a pale gold color. The nose is youthful, has an abundant cereal grain presence, and an underlying floral and sea breeze character. In addition, there's a very pleasant buttery aroma. The palate is quite dry with the same elements of the nose continuing. The finish is surprisingly complex for a whisky this young, with slight peppery, spicy notes -- and again, that buttery quality. 77 |
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| Merchant Bottlings: |
It is too early for independent bottlings to be surface. |
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| Information: |
Ownership: Isle of Arran Distillers
Telephone: 01770-830264
From the US: 011-44-1770-830264
Tours: Visitor center with scheduled tours. |
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| Link: |
www.arranwhisky.com |
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| Highland Park |
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Highland Park distillery.

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| Comments: |
Highland Park is the northernmost distillery in Scotland and a lovely whisky. It has the smoky, salty character of an island whisky, combined with the subtlety and richness of a Highland malt. Above all there is a sense of balance.
When I first experienced Highland Park I was at a loss to explain the high ratings given it by many tasters. Looking back I realize I was trying too hard to define a flavor rather than appreciating the subtle balance of flavors.
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| Distillery Bottlings: |
Until recently, a 12-year-old was the only expression available in the US. There are now additional 18-year-old and 25-year-old releases being distributed.
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The 12-year-old is a special pleasure. The nose is sweet with a peaty earthiness, a heathery floweriness, and a huge, smoky dryness. The palate is a beautifully balanced combination of honey sweetness, peaty earthiness, heathery floweriness, smoke, and salt. The dry finish is tantalizing with a heathery sweetness trailed by a long smokiness. An exceptional malt. 91 |
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| Special Bottlings: |
There are several special releases available in the UK.:
1977 Bicentenary Reserve

Highland Park 1958
In addition, there are two releases that are becoming quite rare:
1967 (24-year-old)

Highland Park Online Tasting (1974-88), a special bottling created for a tasting held on Highland Park's Web site.
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| Merchant Bottlings: |
There have consistently been many merchant bottlings available from all major independent bottlers. All that I have tasted have been delicious, exhibiting exceptional balance and smoothness. |
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As a rule I'm not partial to first-fill sherry cask expressions as they most often tend to mask the subtleties of the underlying whisky with a wall of saturated sherry. Sherry cask aging can be exquisite in a very old whisky, as the other flavors tend to intensify at 25 or 30 years (even 40 or 50) and balance the strength of the sherry.
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A 1998 10-year-old release from Cadenhead (55.1 vol.), is a very notable exception to this rule. While the sherry is still the first impression in both nose and palate, it is not overpowering. A second reading of smoky peat, seaweed, and salt quickly sets in, all balanced in a smooth creaminess -- outstanding. 87
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A 17-year-old release from Murray McDavid (1979-97, 46 vol.), has a bright, yellow-gold color. The nose has a subtle balance of honey in combination with nutty peat, gentle spices and layered smoke. The key to describe the palate is again balance. On the palate, a burst of sweet, tongue-coating honey evolves into a nutty, peaty flavor. The finish is long, smoky and slightly chewy. 90
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A 20-year-old Cooper's Choice bottling (1978-98, 43 vol.), is a light gold and has a rich nose with malt, oak, smoke and a floral, potpourri quality. The palate is dry and smoky, less complex than the nose would suggest, yet has notes of heather and a slight creamy, nuttiness. The finish is dry, smoky, and lightly salty. 88 |
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A 21-year-old bottling from the Vintage Malt Company (1978-99, 43 vol.) is a full gold color. The nose is a little floral, slightly oaky, a bit peaty, and smoky. The palate is a little sweet and honeyish at first, then malty dry. The texture is creamy, buttery. The finish is quite long with creamy, smoky, and faint salty notes. 89
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A 22-year-old Signatory (1975-97, 50.3 vol.), is an amber color, and has a little spiciness (minty) to the nose, along with honey, smoke, oak, and a mild earthiness. The palate has a beautiful balance of smoke, honey, oak, and a slight saltiness. The finish is very long, smoky, and has continuing, mouth-watering honey notes. Delicious. 91
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A 25-year-old (1975-2000, 43 vol.) is available from Hart Brothers. It has an amber color and a rich, cedary nose with elements of burnt sugar, flowers, and leafy bonfires. The palate is dry and earthy, but has a balancing honey-like sweetness, and a chewy, tongue-coating thickness. The finish is long, dry, oaky, and smoky. An excellent expression of one of the great malts. 89 |
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A 24-year-old (1977-2001, 53.7 vol.) has been released in the Signatory Vintgage line. The color is a light straw. The nose is rich, complex, in an oily, dense fusion of smoke, honey, vanilla and a faint, peaty nuttiness. A splash of water reduces the density and opens up more nutty notes and some faint herbal hints. The palate is a smooth balance of sweet and dry flavors, ending in a long, dry, smoky, and faintly salty finish. 87 |
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The Old Man of Hoy is a Blackadder single cask bottling of 10-year-old Highland Park. The name of the whisky is taken from a third Orkney distillery (located in Stromness), that was closed and demolished in the 1920's. The product of the forgotten distillery was commonly known as "O.O.", or "Old Orkney" whisky.
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The Old Man of Hoy (43 vol.) has a pale gold color and a sweet, creamy, marshmallow nose with lemony and big smoky notes. The palate is creamy, dry, with citric, and grassy, notes. The finish is long, dry, buttery, very smoky, and a bit tart. Not nearly as good as the distillery releases, but a bargain in the low $20 range. 82
Not one of the better expressions of Highland Park.
Also bottled as Signatory Vintage Orkney.
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| Information: |
Ownership: Highland Distillers Ltd
Telephone: 01856-874619
From the US: 011-44-1856-874619
Tours: Visitor center with scheduled tours. |
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| Link: |
www.highlandpark.co.uk |
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| Jura |
aka Isle of Jura |
| Comments: |
The isolation of the Isle of Jura led to illicit distillations in a cave not far from the current distillery, which dates back to 1810. In 1901, an uneasy partnership between a Campbell family that owned the buildings, and a James Ferguson who owned the stills and whisky-making equipment ended when Ferguson removed his equipment. The Campbells reciprocated by removing the roof of the distillery (taxes were not assessed on uncompleted buildings).
The present facilities are quite modern, dating back to 1963. The stills have very long necks, producing a very light Highland-like malt.
The Isle of Jura itself is famous for the fact that George Orwell retreated to the north of the island to write the novel, 1984.
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| Distillery Bottlings: |
It's a constant source of amazement to me that island whiskies can vary so wildly in character. The Isle of Jura distillery is only about 10 miles away from the Caol Ila distillery, across the Sound of Islay, but the flavor would have you believe it is from the furthest reaches of Scotland. Jura is much closer in taste to an Old Pulteney or Clynelish from the Northeast of Scotland.
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The 10-year-old (40 vol.) distillery release is quite delicate, malty sweet, somewhat dry, and a little smoky. Only a faint saltiness lets you know that this is and island malt. 72 |
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A 15-year-old release (43 vol.) is a gold/amber color with a nose that is piny, faintly earthy, salty, and a little smoky. The palate is sweet, malty, and creamy, but a little nondescript. There are hints of richness and complexity but they never really develop. 73

There is also a 26-year-old Stillman's Dram available. |
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A limited release 16-year-old bottling was released in November, 2000. |
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| Merchant Bottlings: |
There have been several independent bottlings over the past few years. |
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| Information: |
Ownership: JBB (Greater Europe) PLC
Telephone: 01496-820240
From the US: 011-44-1496-820240
Tours: By appointment. |
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| Scapa |
| Comments: |
Only a half mile from Highland Park distillery on the Orkney Islands, Scapa barely misses the distinction of being the northernmost distillery in Scotland.
Sailors who were billeted at the distillery during World War II managed to put out a fire that would have destroyed the distillery. At another time, Canadian troops used the larch washbacks to bathe in!
Though the distillery uses unpeated malt, a peatiness creeps into the whisky due to its very peaty water from Lingro Burn. In 1959 the distillery was refurbished, including the addition of a Lomand still (a cylindrical, rather than swan necked still), that produces a heavier, more oily malt.
Scapa is currently managed by its neighbor Orkney distillery, Highland Park. Over the years, most of the distillery output has gone into the Ballentine's blend.
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| Distillery Bottlings: |
Scapa is available in the US in a 12-year-old (40 vol.) expression. It has a gold color and a light nose, with touches of oak, vanilla, and rich chocolate. The palate is sweet, soft, with creamy and salty notes. The finish is a little salty, slightly peppery, and leaves with a faint buttery echo. 81 |
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| Merchant Bottlings: |
The owners of Scapa, Allied Distillers, allow Gordon and MacPhail to bottle a 10-year-old under the Scapa name. Similar to the 12-year-old above, it has a bit more of a chocolate and bourbon presence. 79 |
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A Signatory 9-year-old (1990-99, 43 vol.), has a white wine color and a dry, lightly perfumy nose with hints of salt, smoke, and a faint peatiness. The palate is smooth, nutty, and faintly chocolatey. More salt and smoke notes emerge in the finish. Very nice. 82 |
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| Information: |
Ownership: Allied Distillers Ltd (Allied Domecq)
Telephone: 01856-872071
From the US: 011-44-1856-872071 |
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| Talisker |
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The Talisker distillery viewed from across Loch Harport.
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| Comments: |
Talisker was founded in 1830 and, like many distilleries, seemed to continually change ownership (at one time owned by Roderick Kemp who sold Talisker and purchased The Macallan in 1892). Perhaps one reason for its lack of early success was that Talisker was tripled distilled (a common practice in Lowland malts but unique in other areas of Scotland). The product would have surely been a much lighter malt than we are familiar with today.
The existing stillhouse dates back to 1960 when the original was destroyed by fire.
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| Distillery Bottlings: |
Talisker is one of the great whiskies -- fiery, peppery, smoky, and peaty.
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The lone distillery expression available in the US is a 10-year-old (there is a distillery "1986" bottling sold in the UK). Don't let the young age statement mislead you. By law, a distillery has to list the age of the youngest whisky in a bottling. In the case of Talisker there is obviously some product from much older casks in the mix. |
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In fact, that's the special pleasure of Talisker -- the combination of mature, smooth, older whisky melded with the exuberance and brashness of younger distillings.
It's a big, huge whiskey, deep amber with a peppery, smoky nose. The flavor is malty sweet, balanced by some youthful sourness and continuing pepperiness. The finish is long smoky, and again -- peppery. 90
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| Special Bottlings: |
In the UK a special 1986 "Double Matured" release (45.8 vol., finished in amoroso sherry), is available. It has a slightly darker, red-amber color. The nose has sweet, grapey notes, like candy fruit gels. The palate is sweet and very smooth, until a big burst of pepper emerges, The finish is characteristic Talisker -- big and peppery. An excellent alternative to the classic 10-year-old Talisker. 90 |
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| Merchant Bottlings: |
Over the past few years there have been several excellent releases from Cadenhead.
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A 15-year-old and a 17-year-old both from the same 1979 oak cask distillation were both excellent. Lighter than the distillery release without older, sherry cask whiskies mixed in. The spicy, pepperiness remains and a bit more salty, brininess comes through. 88 |
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An 18-year-old sherry cask bottling from 1979 is enjoyable, but the intensity of the sherry tends to mask much of the distinctive Talisker character. 84 |
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| Special Bottlings: |
As I left Scotland I picked up a few bottles to bring home at the Odd Bins store at Prestwick Airport . This Gordon & MacPhail 38-year-old Talisker Cask bottling (1955-93) was one of the most enjoyable whiskies I've ever encountered.
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Similar to Black Bowmore in it's depth, complexity and color -- I actually rated it a bit higher in my comparisons. Sadly, the bottle is long gone but the memory lingers. 97
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| Information: |
Ownership: Diageo
Telephone: 01478-640314
From the US: 011-44-1478-640314
Tours: Visitor center with scheduled tours. |
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| Tobermory |
aka Ledaig |
| Comments: |
In recent years the Ledaig Distillery has had an up and down existence. Over the last three decades it has opened and closed several times, and ceased operation for lengthy periods. The distillery is now owned by Burn Stewart (who also own the Deanston distillery), and is producing an unpeated Tobermory and a heavily peated Ledaig. Unfortunately, the original Tobermory warehouses were demolished to build apartments so the current product is being aged in the Highlands at the Deanston facility. |
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| Distillery Bottlings: |
With the many openings and closings of the distillery it must have been difficult to produce a consistent product. Until recently, some releases under the name Tobermory were vatted malts containing product from other distilleries. The 10-year-old now states that it is a single malt. It is pleasant, but has more of a Highland nature than an island malt, due in part to the fact that the casks are matured at the Deanston distillery in the Highlands. Another reason it tends to lack an island character is that the whisky is produced from unpeated grain. 72 |
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The distillery currently releases a 15-year-old Ledaig (40 vol.). It has a slightly thin amber color and a powerful, smoky, barbecue grill nose. The palate is toffee sweet, peaty and smoky, with a thin oiliness. The finish is soft, peaty.
This is an extremely frustrating whisky, as Burn Stewart is releasing its product from both Deanston and Ledaig at 40 vol. Unfortunately, it results in a somewhat watery whisky. This is especially problematic in a potentially "big" whisky like Ledaig. The smoky, peaty flavors seem to end abruptly without ever fully developing. At 46 vol. this would undoubtedly be a powerful single malt. A few drops of water at that point would most likely open flavors that are erased by reduction at the time of bottling. 76
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Another Ledaig, a 20-year-old (1974, 43 vol.) with a delicious seaside character was available in the US through the 1990's (there are still a few bottles to be found). There is a nutty creaminess, mixed with an herbal, oaky, spice and salt character. 77
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| Merchant Bottlings: |
Cadenhead released a 22-year-old Ledaig (1973, 44.2 vol.) that is very enjoyable. The nose has a powerful combination of smoke, brine, peat, pepper and mint. The palate is sweet with oaky smoothness. The sweetness is tempered by a salty finish with faint traces of mint leaves. 79
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Also bottled as Signatory Vintage Mull.
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| Information: |
Ownership: Burn Stewart Distillers PLC
Telephone: 01688-302647
From the US: 011-44-1688-302647
Tours: Visitor center with scheduled tours. |
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