The most readily available release is called Auchentoshan Select (no age statement). It's very light malt, and has the distinctive Lowland toasted marshmallow, creme brulee nose. There's a slightly viscous, oily quality with a sweet and clean flavor. The subtleties of this whisky are easily overlooked, but it is quite enjoyable.

An older lowland malt is an entirely different experience than a young 8 or 10-year-old. The lightness of the youthful, flowery, cereal grain flavors give way to more of the old cask oak and wood flavors.

I recently sampled a 31-year-old (1966, 51.7 vol.) that was very rich and flavorful. Full gold with red highlights, the nose is quite woody at first, then opens up with a dash of water. Reduced a bit, aromas of dates and spices are more evident. The palate was rich, with elements of citrus and subtle spices. The wood tends to become less pronounced and more cedar-like.

Also bottled as McClelland's Lowland.

Also bottled as Signatory Vintage Lowland.

Raymond Armstrong, of Northern Ireland, purchased Bladnoch from United Distillers in 1995 for use as a summer home. Sale was made with the provision that it never produce whisky again. It was turned into a very pleasant, though somewhat sad museum.

Over the course of the next five years Raymond fought to have the restriction removed. Finally, in what is one of the happier endings to a distillery story, in late 2000 it returned to limited production. On the eve of the new millennium I received a message from Raymond saying that Bladnoch had returned to life with the smell of whisky about the distillery.

The enthusiasm that Raymond brings to Bladnoch is infectious. On a recent visit I waited to meet with him while he personally escorted a group of tourists through the distillery, (two employees were ill that day and he jumped in to keep visitors from having to wait too long for tours).

When we had an opportunity to chat I was mesmerized by the animated way he discussed his plans for the future of the distillery. As he described it (and as most of us already know), whisky grows on you. When he bought Bladnoch he purchased a little bit of history. He's felt a commitment, even a passion to bring the distillery back to life, and continue its nearly 200 year heritage. It must have been a proud moment when he diverted the first distillations through the spirit safe.

An exquisite whisky. 90

Bladnoch's new Web site, though unpolished, reflects the enthusiasm of its owner. There's lots to see and learn from, even a discussion group where Raymond frequently answers the questions of whisky lovers.

www.bladnoch.co.uk

In 1959 the American company, Barton Brands purchased a share of Littlemill and introduced it to the American market. Six years later, at the peak of Littlemill's production, the owners opened a second distillery named Loch Lomond in nearby Alexandria.

In 1994 the owners at the time, Gibson International, went into receivership. In one of the more interesting twists of fate in the world of whisky, the distillery was purchased by the Loch Lomond company (who also own Loch Lomond and Glen Scotia distilleries). There are plans to resume limited production in combination with a museum and tourist center. Whether the new Littlemill will taste the same as the current Littlemill is anyone's guess, but it is very unlikely since it will be produced from new stills (the old stills were dismantled).

Rosebank has all the light simple sophistication of a Lowland malt, but has little of the powdery, toasted marshmallow evidenced in other Lowland distillings. Very, very enjoyable.

A young 8-year-old (1989) Cadenhead is a special pleasure. Almost transparent with a slight "white wine" tinge, the nose has a predominant dusty, cereal quality. What might have been too raw in another whisky is made quite enjoyable by the triple distillation process.